Craft Coffee Foe the Cigar Enthusiast
From our friends @Cigar Dojo!
We'd like to share thoughts on coffee with you. We see the stuff you post
with your smokes and…well… it doesn’t add up. You are connoisseurs of the
highest order when it comes to the leaf, and we believe you might appreciate a little
more enjoyment from your bean. We'd like to begin by drawing a parallel between cigars and coffee, and how both have
changed in recent years. In the cigar world over the last twenty or so years we have
seen a “bah-zillion” boutique brands pop up. How can these brands compete with
the big/corporate brands? There are many factors at play, but largely this comes
down to the two biggies: quality and scale. These smaller brands can do things on a
smaller scale that the big boys cannot. The little guys can make use of
interesting/rare quality tobaccos that the big guys cannot or will not embrace, and
for good reason. Your average big cigar corporation makes millions and millions of
cigars a year for their mass-market cigars. What they need is consistency, so that
every cigar in each brand/vitola tastes the same. Consistency is the name of the
game. Buying/cultivating massive amounts of the same tobacco year in and year
out is what makes sense in that scenario. So, the smaller yield, more limited
tobaccos can be bought and put to use by the small boutique blenders. It simply
isn’t feasible for the larger brands to buy up small batches of a leaf to blend and
market a cigar of which they can only produce 50,000.
With boutique cigar brands carving out a niche in the market—not unlike what was
seen with craft beer a decade or two earlier—tobacco farmers find that it is
economically possible to cultivate these harder to grow, lower-yielding, higher
quality tobaccos. Thus, more quality, diversity, and creativity has been on display in
today’s premium cigar market. Growing, curing, aging, and blending have all
advanced, both contributing to and benefitting from the boutique cigar boom.
Now, let’s look at coffee. For years, coffee in America was made in the home (or at
the diner) in the traditional coffeepot or, generations prior, the percolator. The
coffee was bought pre-ground and most likely preserved in a can (Folgers, Hills
Bros., etc.). That was coffee in America for years, until the “second wave” arrived,
which was the dedicated coffee shop. People started going out for coffee and some
coffee shops specialized in roasting their own coffee. This was still the “dark” ages, though, in the sense that the style of the time was dark-roasted coffee. The darker
and the more oilly, the better—and for good reason. Coffees were still being grown
with very limited varietals and very low quality. The lower quality the bean, the
more it could benefit from a dark roast. Allow me to use another example: beer.
Low quality beer tastes better if it’s ice cold, right? Ice cold Bud Light ring any bells.
Similarly, low-grade coffee tastes better dark-roasted. In this manner, big coffee
giants began acquiring cheap coffee crop, enabling a consistent flavor profile based
on a roast style.
Like tobacco, craft farms operate on different values and can grow exceptional
coffee in smaller lots. This, no doubt, results in the higher costs of labor-intensive
growing and processing—practices that simply wouldn’t mesh with the big chains
and their means of burning flavors away into the obscurity of a dark-roasted blend.
Enter the micro-roaster, or specialty coffee, or the “third wave.”
Coffee, if you didn’t know, is a fruit. The “beans” are akin to the pit of a cherry. In fact, the fruit
itself is called a coffee cherry. At some point, growers began growing “fruit,” rather than
“beans.” With more care in the growing and processing of the coffee fruit, growers found that
they were left with coffee beans that showcased more flavors from the fruit. These coffees
offered brighter, sweeter, fruitier flavors. Processing, too, began to see improvements. How and
when the fruit is removed from the bean makes a big difference in flavor. Washed coffees, where
the fruit is removed right after harvest with the use of water, lends very bright, clean flavors to
the beans. On the other hand, natural-processed coffee allows the bean to slightly ferment in the
fruit before it is removed. These coffees, when properly done, can be extremely juicy and
delicious and very fruit-forward. There are multiple other methods and combinations of coffee
processing, but these are basically the two extreme ends of the spectrum (think natural vs maduro
leaf shade, as comparison).
The Goal is to find a roaster with the skill to bring out the best potential of the coffee.
Enter the light roast. Not unlike comparing the golden hue of an Illusione Epernay to the jet-
black cover of Altadis USA’s Onyx Reserve, you’ll find layers of intricate and nuanced
complexities, vs the single-noted result of fermentation beyond recognition. A knowledgeable
roaster will bring out the very best flavors of the actual coffee itself—a fruit product. Simply put,
coffee doesn’t have to taste like dirt and char… and don’t get me started on flavored coffees.
Now that your appetite has been sufficiently whetted for the palate-rewarding sensations of third-
wave coffee, you may be asking yourself, “How does one start down that slippery slope?”
Unfortunately, not everyone has access to a skilled local micro-roaster. Have no fear! Many of
the best roasters will ship coffee or, better yet, offer coffee subscriptions with ever-changing
selections of coffees delivered once or twice a month. This is a great way to experience a wide
variety of coffee regions, processing methods, and bean varietals. There are so many options
available for coffee subscriptions, with every roaster having their own style and preference for
roast, varietal, processing method, and origin. Many offer selections of blended or single-origin
coffees. I’ll just mention a few that I really love. With a rapidly growing movement of craft/local roasters, premium coffee is now more akin to
the craft beer and cigar movements. In the realm of craft/boutique cigars, it may be uncommon
for the enthusiast to readily purchase the same brand, let alone an individual cigar blend… My
advice? Try stuff! Lots of stuff! Latin American honey process… Ethiopian natural process…
Yes, these may seem expensive considering you can buy a $5 pound of the old-fashioned dark
roasted coffee at the grocery store or what have you, but if you’re not buying $1 cigars you
already understand that the good stuff costs more. And that’s my whole point here—if you’re a
connoisseur of fine cigars, you may be ready to delve into the world of craft coffee.
As for brewing, we'll keep it simple and cheap (for now…). Buy a burr grinder. There are very
reliable options in the under-$100 range. Of course, just like the S.T. Dupont lighter, you can
indulge in luxury grinders, too. Now that you’ve got your beans
and you’ve ground them, it’s time to brew them. Here’s the good news: you can make
spectacular coffee easily and inexpensively. Buy an AeroPress, generally priced at a very reasonable $25 – $30.